Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Grapes in Urban Gardens

Every quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel-powered train pulls into a graffiti-covered stop. Close by, a law enforcement alarm pierces the near-constant traffic drone. Daily travelers hurry past collapsing, ivy-covered garden fences as rain clouds gather.

It is maybe the last place you anticipate to find a perfectly formed grape-growing plot. However one local grower has cultivated four dozen established plants heavy with round purplish grapes on a rambling allotment sandwiched between a line of 1930s houses and a commuter railway just north of Bristol town centre.

"I've seen people concealing heroin or other items in the shrubbery," says Bayliss-Smith. "But you simply continue ... and keep tending to your vines."

Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who runs a fermented beverage company, is among several local vintner. He has organized a informal group of growers who produce vintage from several hidden urban vineyards nestled in back gardens and community plots throughout Bristol. It is too clandestine to have an formal title so far, but the group's WhatsApp group is named Grape Expectations.

City Wine Gardens Around the Globe

To date, the grower's plot is the only one listed in the Urban Vineyards Association's forthcoming global directory, which includes better-known city vineyards such as the 1,800 plants on the hillsides of Paris's renowned Montmartre area and more than three thousand grapevines with views of and within Turin. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the vanguard of a movement re-establishing urban grape cultivation in historic wine-producing countries, but has identified them throughout the world, including cities in Japan, South Asia and Central Asia.

"Vineyards assist urban areas remain more eco-friendly and ecologically varied. They preserve open space from development by creating long-term, yielding farming plots within cities," says the organization's leader.

Similar to other vintages, those produced in cities are a product of the earth the vines thrive in, the vagaries of the climate and the people who care for the fruit. "Each vintage represents the beauty, local spirit, environment and history of a city," adds the spokesperson.

Mystery Eastern European Grapes

Returning to Bristol, the grower is in a race against time to gather the grapevines he grew from a cutting abandoned in his allotment by a Polish family. If the precipitation comes, then the pigeons may seize their chance to attack again. "Here we have the enigmatic Polish variety," he says, as he removes damaged and mouldy grapes from the glistering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they are certainly disease-resistant. Unlike noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and other famous European varieties – you don't have to treat them with pesticides ... this could be a unique cultivar that was developed by the Soviets."

Group Efforts Throughout the City

The other members of the collective are additionally taking advantage of sunny interludes between bursts of autumn rain. On the terrace overlooking Bristol's shimmering harbour, where historic trading ships once floated with barrels of wine from France and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is harvesting her rondo grapes from about fifty plants. "I love the smell of these vines. It is so evocative," she remarks, pausing with a container of fruit resting on her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you open the car windows on holiday."

The humanitarian worker, 52, who has spent over 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, unexpectedly took over the vineyard when she moved back to the UK from East Africa with her family in recent years. She experienced an strong responsibility to look after the grapevines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has previously survived three different owners," she says. "I deeply appreciate the idea of natural stewardship – of handing this down to future caretakers so they continue producing from this land."

Sloping Vineyards and Traditional Production

A short walk away, the final two members of the group are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. One filmmaker has cultivated over 150 plants perched on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the silty River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, indicating the interwoven grape garden. "They can't believe they are viewing rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."

Today, Scofield, sixty, is picking bunches of dusty purple dark berries from rows of vines slung across the cliff-side with the help of her daughter, her family member. Scofield, a documentary producer who has worked on streaming service's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's gardening shows, was inspired to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbour's grapevines. She's discovered that amateurs can produce intriguing, enjoyable natural wine, which can command prices of more than £7 a serving in the increasing quantity of wine bars focusing on minimal-intervention vintages. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can actually create good, traditional vintage," she says. "It's very on trend, but really it's reviving an traditional method of producing vintage."

"During foot-stomping the fruit, all the natural microorganisms come off the surfaces and enter the liquid," explains the winemaker, partially submerged in a container of small branches, seeds and crimson juice. "That's how vintages were made traditionally, but industrial wineries add sulphur [dioxide] to kill the natural cultures and subsequently add a commercially produced culture."

Challenging Environments and Inventive Approaches

In the immediate vicinity active senior Bob Reeve, who inspired Scofield to establish her vines, has assembled his friends to pick Chardonnay grapes from one hundred plants he has laid out neatly across two terraces. The former teacher, a northern English physical education instructor who worked at Bristol University cultivated an interest in viticulture on regular visits to France. But it is a difficult task to grow Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the gorge, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to produce French-style vintages here, which is somewhat ambitious," says the retiree with a smile. "This variety is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to mildew."

"My goal was creating Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers"

The temperamental Bristol climate is not the only problem faced by grape cultivators. The gardener has been compelled to install a barrier on

Nicholas Marsh
Nicholas Marsh

A tech enthusiast and business analyst passionate about sharing insights on innovation and digital transformation.